8月 26th, 2006

竹? 島周辺を巡る

Posted in Travel by admin
 石垣島に着いたら少し曇っていた。那? 空港ではかなり晴れていたんだけれど。那? と八重山では東京と大阪? の蜷 離があるのでそれもしょうがない。時刻は午前11時、待っていたバスで石垣圸 街へ向かい、ホテルに荷物を預けた。ホテルは離島へのフェリーが数? ぜ 出ている桟橋の蜿 ぜ 、夜には? 華? と化す? ? 町にある。その蜿 ぜ には公設市場を中? に土産物? などが軒を連ねるあぱやにモールがある。今日は午前4時台の圧 発電蜻 で出発したのでまだろぜ に飯を食っていない。適? に歩き、一番最初に? つけた島料理の? 「南の島」という店に入った。

 旅行好きの圏 人にソーメン・チャンプルは? 外? 味しいということを聞いていたので、日替゜ り定食(八重山そば? 食)を諦めてそっちにした。これはソーメンのペペロンチーボ だな、オリーブオイルは使っていないが。簡単に出来そうなので帰ったら作ってみよう。? 味しいけど? 統の味ではないような? がする。イタリアの? 統のペペロンチーボ はどのぜ らい? 味しいのだろうか。店を出ると霧雨のシャワーのような雨が降っていた。それも屋根着きのあぱやにモール内で暫ぜ 土産物を物色しているうちに? がついたら止んで、青空へと? ゜ っていた。急に話しかけてきたおばちゃんによればどうやらスコールのようなものらしい。

 午後からはシュボ ーケリングをやる予定だった。ダイビングショップのガラス戸をガラっと開けて入ると、8人? 度の真っ霻 い若者達の? 線を集めた、全てスタッフの人達だ。悔しいがサッカー焼けだけの肌では霻 さで分が悪い。この雰囲? はあれに似ている。ゲーム機付きの霧 ? 子屋に入ると、他校の生徒が溜まっており「あ~ん?どこからきたんよ」「八重山? ?゜ しゃあ埼? じゃい」という感じ。しかしその中でも人の良さそうな圭 が親身に対応してぜ れた。TOKIOで? えば国分太? キャラだな、顔は全然違うけど。とりあえず太? にウェットスーツとシュボ ーケルセットを用? してもらい、離島桟橋近ぜ の港からシュボ ーケルスポットへ向かった。暫ぜ 船を走らせ、多分竹? 島の東、アイヤル? の? 合いぜ らいのところで船を停めた。ここからは文で書いてもしょうがない、写真を見てもしょうがない。綺? な海の中で泳ぐのは良いもんだ。夕方頃港へ戻り、太? に礼を言ってホテルに戻る。部? に着いて? 番最初にするのは、
音楽環? をセットすること。これがあるだけで全然違う。この日は? 付を借りて石垣島内を探検するつもりだったけど、横になったら眠ってしまった。さすがぜ 4時間位泳ぜ 続けて身体は疲れていたみたいだ。

シュボ ーケボ (1)

? 瑚と? (1)

シュボ ーケボ (2)

? 瑚と? (2)
シュボ ーケボ (3)

? 瑚と? (3)
シュボ ーケボ (1)

? 瑚と? (4)
  シュボ ーケボ (1)

? 瑚と? (5)
  シュボ ーケボ (1)

丸と?

 起きたら窓の? はすっかり暗ぜ なっており、午後9時だった。時間を無霧 にしたことを後悔しながら急いで? に出て、? ? 町内を歩ぜ 。いかが゜ しいお店に入らないように注? して、居酒屋風のお店「八重山村」に入った。生ビーボ 3杯、ぐる君のから朏 げ、ラフテー、茄子の朏 げ出しを頼んだ。こっちの生ビールはなんかデカイ。必ず大ジョッキという感じだ。オリオンビールは普通においしい。結構酔いながらも港やその? 近の公園を散歩した。終始下手な? 線の音色が聞こえた。下手だけど、その? 音で? ゜ るからずるい楽器だと思う。部? に戻るぜ Pearl
Jamぜ "Yellow Ledbetter"が流れていた。南国らしい民謡でも最近よぜ 聞ぜ ダブでもなぜ 、これが響いた。久しぜ 聞いていなかったのに。この曲を皆に聴いて欲しいと思う。

 次の日はこの旅のメイン、竹? 島に? 陸すること。朝6時に起きてホテルのバイキングを食べる。日頃から朝どんぶり1杯のご飯とパンを2,3個食べるので、旅先でも例外はない。8時半のフェリーで竹富島に向かう。15分程で竹富島に着ぜ と出蜿 えていた貸し自転車屋の自転車を借りた。とりあえずイアン・カーティス号と命名する。舗装されたデイゴの並木道を駆け上がっていぜ 時にはテンションがかなり高まっていた。とんぼが沢山飛んでいて? に? たりそうになる。程なぜ して舗装道路は? ゜ り、白い道と石垣、赤い瓦? 根の集落に落ち着いた。とにかく人がいない、人圏 300人の島らしいが、50人いるだろうか?という印象を持った。実は監? されてたら怖いけど。スケジュール? 能もついている右脳内の地図を頼りに「なごみの? 」に向かう。なごみの? は全く高さはないけれど、島自? の木 高が作 いのでとても見晴らしがいい。そこからは石垣島本島、圏 対側には地 浜島、西表島が展望できる。塔からの眺めで地理を把握し、次の目的地へ向かう。カーティス号を走らせていると、道が狭ぜ なってきた。可? しいと思いながらもテンションは進めだ。止まっている事が我慢ならない。木々の中から海が見えた。案内板によればあっちは「安里クマヤの? 」のようだ、かなり北の方向へずれていた。安里クマヤという人は? 人さんだったらしぜ 、琉球政? の役人の朱 婚を圏 けたが、これを断って島の? 栄に勤めたらしい。もし? 人なら役人の朱 婚は断れ。沖縄の代表的な? 謡「安里屋ユンタ」に謡゜ れている。確か坂本霾 一もやってた曲だ。その先の海はとても綺? だった。しかも人が誰もいない。ガイドブックには? っていなかったので? の名前は゜ からない。カーティス号を置き、砂浜にしゃがみ込んだ。両手を拡げクラウチングスタートの姿勢をとる。腰を上げ、息を止めた。ダーン? とボ シが大声で叫んだ。キクは? び出す。数歩先を走る予感の中の自分を追う抜こうと思った。硬い砂を右足が三回目に蹴った時だ。体が急に軽ぜ なった。熱を孕む予感と溶け合った。手に入れたぞ、とキクは思った。ずっと? 側にあって俺を怯えさせた巨大な金属の回転? 、それを俺は自分の中についに手に入れたぞ、そう思った。

フェリボ

竹? 島へのフェリボ

デイゴ並?

集落へ? ぜ デイゴ並?
竹? 島風?

集落の石?
竹? 島風?

集落を歩ぜ
  竹? 島風?

オブジェとシーサボ
  竹? 島風?

何かの?
なごみの?

なごみの?
  なごみの?

塔からの眺め
  なごみの?

塔からの眺め
クマヤの? へ? ぜ 道

クマヤの? へ? ぜ 道
  クマヤの? へ? ぜ 道

クマヤの? へ? ぜ 道
  クマヤの? 近ぜ の海

海とカーティス圏
クマヤの? 近ぜ の海

クマヤの? 近ぜ の海
  クマヤの? 近ぜ の海

軽ぜ て靴擦れしない
  竹? 島風?

集落の風?

 西? 橋の方へ向かうと観光客が見られるようになった。そこからコンドイビーチへ向かうと更に人が増えてきた。皆はここを目? てにしていたようだ。カーティス号を停め、オリオンビールを買って歩ぜ 、人が少なかったらパラソルでも借りてのんびりしようかとも思ってたけど、そういう感じではなかった。隣りのカイジ? まで歩ぜ 。少ししてやっぱり人が見えなぜ なった。白と霻 ぜ 2匹の鳥が水浴びをしている。カイジ? は星の砂で有名なところらしい。砂浜にかがみ込んで星の砂を探している人が結構いた。コンドイビーチに戻るとさっきよりも浜が干? がっており、ビーチから300メートル先にも砂浜が出来ていて歩いていけるようになっていた。かなりの遠浅なので圭 供でも溺れる事はないだろう。

西? 橋

西? 橋

西? 橋

西? 橋の海
コンドイビーチ

コンドイビーチ
コンドイビーチ

コンドイビーチ
  カイジ?

カイジ?
  カイジ?

カイジ?

 一度集落に戻り、「泉屋」という雑貨? でお土産を買った。半ズボンがガキみたいで良かったけど似合゜ ないので諦めた。次はコンドイビーチ、カイジ? の圏 対側、アイヤル? へ向かう。こっちの方はやっぱり観光客がいない、水牛舜 の匂いで父の? 家のある岩手を思い出す。2つの? 大な牧草地を抜けると、道はやっぱり険しぜ なる。カーティス号を走らせると、トンボが舞い、鳥が鳴き、色んな蝶々が飛び交い、地面にはコバルトブルーの尻尾の蜥蜴が走り出す。アイヤル? は? 石に遊泳するような感じじゃなかったけど、海はやっぱり綺? だった。こういう整備されていないところも魅力だと思う。前日のシュボ ーケリングスポットからここが見えたはずだ。アイヤル? から引き返す途中、牧草地の向こう側に? 際怪しく立つ鳥居が見えた。これは? かずに? ゜ れないという好? 心で向かう。標識を見ると竹富島に数? く存在する御嶽(オボ )の? つらしい、これは眥 社のようなもので島の聖所、本島ではウタキと呼ばれている。標識には、島の人が何かを祈りを捧げる時に圏 る場所なので、簡単には? ち? らないで? さいと書かれていた。入るのは止め、この先にもあるという2つの御嶽に向かった。先は木々が生い茂り、暗ぜ なっていた。ここぜ 2つの御嶽、雰囲? がちょっとおかしい、御嶽は集落にもあるのだけど、ここはなんか違う気がした。道の先にぜ (名前忘れた)浜があるらしぜ 、やはりガイドに? っていなかったので向かおうとした。道は? までになぜ 険しい。カーティス号を走らせた瞬間、鳥と虫が一気に鳴きだした。あぁ駄目なんだ、という感覚になりここから先は? き返す事にした。

アイヤル? へ? ぜ 道

アイヤル? へ? ぜ 道

アイヤル? へ? ぜ 道

アイヤル? へ? ぜ 道
アイヤル? へ? ぜ 道

アイヤル?
御嶽の鳥居

不気味な御嶽の鳥居
  ラスタカラーの水牛

ラスタカラーの水牛
  目印にした給水塔

目印にした給水塔

 時刻は午後1時を遜 ぜ ていたので、竹? 島で飯屋を探す。集落に向かい、八重山そばで有名らしい「竹の圭 」という店に向かった。結構人が並んでいたので、予定変更。飯? じゃないけど「パーラーぱいぬ島」というお店で島そばと生ビールを頼んだ。ここまでで水1.5リットルは飲んだけど、ジョッキ? 気になぜ なったよ。島そばもピィヤーシ? 島の胡? )を入れたりして? 構? 味しかった。

 最後に? った浜、? ? 浜はちょっと? ゜ っていた。砂浜ではなぜ 、黒い岩がゴツゴツしている。岩の? 伝いにをジャンプして進む。黒い岩に机 まった海水の中には青い熱帯魚が泳いでいた。10メートル離れた海には地 さな島みたいになっている。この? は特に楽しかった。地獄と楽園という感じ。この? では地 し不思議なことがあった。浜についた時、自転車が7台あったのだけど人が1家? 4人しか見えない。帰り際、浜の脇に? ? (ミサ゜ )御嶽がある事を思い出した。ここにもやはり鳥? があるのだけど、その前に停めてある自転車3台分が余計だったのだ。大人用自転車2台と圭 供用自転車1台。ここに停めて自転車を使゜ ずに帰る理由は? 当たらない。中に入って戻っていないのだろうか?良ぜ みると自転車はかなり錆びきっていて、1ヶ月以? はたっているものだった。

八重山そぜ

八重山そぜ

? ? 浜へ? ぜ 道

? ? 浜へ? ぜ 道
? ? 浜

? ? 浜
? ? 浜

? ? 浜
  竹? 小学?

竹? 小学?
  山? 定食

山? 定食

 午後3時を遜 ぜ て、この島の周囲を巡る舗装道路を最後ぜ 1周した。カーティス号のメンテナンスがいいのか、道の? り坂上がり坂のバランスがいいのか車輪がよく走ってぜ れる。立ちこぜ で、空と左右の景色を眺めながらカーティス号を走らせる。不安と欲望。やってみたいというやむにやまれぬ? 持ちと、それを恐れる気持ちと。行ったことにある場所と、これから行きたいと思う場所の。ありがとうカーティス号。

 夕方に石垣島に戻り、? 付を借りて本島も見学しておこうかと思ったが、時間が遅すぜ て借りる事ができなかった。歩ぜ ことにする。マップルのガイドを頼りに石垣鍾乳洞とその蜿 ぜ の山羊料理の? を目指す。石垣も市街を抜けると? 気に田舜 化する、歩いていろんなものが見れたので良かった。途中、ゥメ? という山? の鳴き声が1回聞こえた。山? 料理はそんなに? 味しいのだろうか?本人が行ってるんだから間違いないだろう。40分ほど歩いて山羊料理の? 「一休」に着いた。一休定食と生ビールを頼んだが、山? 刺身を切らしているという。それでも山? 汁、山? の炒め物があるのでよしとした。味は・・これはすごいアフリカな感じがした。そこら辺の動物を殺して煮たり焼いたりしたらこんな味がするに違いない。変゜ った味がして・・でも? 味しい、旅にきたならこんな? ゜ った料理が食べたいものだし。しかし山? 刺しがなぜ て良かった・・かも。食後、鍾乳洞に? ったら入口に人がいなかった。居ないので勝手に入った。夕闇の中、殆どない昜 かりの鍾乳洞を見る。でかい鳥が飛び? ったりして、映画の中のようだった。結構怖い、普通の人じゃまず無理だろう。しかしあいつはこの中にいる。(つづぜ )

圏 考文献?
マップル石垣・宮古・西表島
スティーブン・キング「IT」

村上 龍「コインロッカー・ベイビーズ」

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